Nonetheless, after the “Barbenheimer” marketing miracle this summer, studios are hoping to recreate at least some of that movie magic this fall.In one room, visitors can dance to a pulsating soundtrack under flashing lights, surrounded by clothing inspired by nightlife. “We realised that so much of the fashion scene was rooted in club nights, so we felt that had to have its own section,” Mower says. On display is the fluorescent bandage dress from Christopher Kane’s debut 2006 collection that impressed Donatella Versace so much that she later hired Kane to work on her line Versus. ![]() There is also a latex bodysuit adorned with giant spheres from Gareth Pugh, which references Soho’s sex shops, while a floor-sweeping gown adorned with motifs of smiley faces from Charles Jeffrey Loverboy’s 2018 collection pays homage to shuttered seminal London clubs including Blitz, Kinky Gerlinky and Boombox. ![]() Thirty years ago, Britain was in the grip of a recession and London fashion week was feeling its impact. Starry names such as Vivienne Westwood had decamped to show in Paris, and with only 14 names on the London schedule, editors and stylists were reluctant to travel to the capital. “This was prior to social media so bums on seats mattered,” says Mower. The lightbulb moment came when they realised it was youth culture.” “The British Fashion Council was trying to figure out what London had that New York, Paris and Milan didn’t offer. The British Fashion Council set up a NewGen programme with the mission of supporting new talent – it has since helped launch the careers of a plethora of designers. The first presentation by a NewGen designer took place at the Ritz hotel with the then unknown Lee Alexander McQueen making his debut. However, visitors to this exhibition won’t get to see his earliest collection. Instead, a room projects the voice of his former housemate and fellow designer Simon Ungless recalling how it was lost shortly after the showcase at the Ritz. Shoving the collection into bin bags afterwards, the duo headed to their favourite club. ![]() Unable to pay for the cloakroom, they hid the bags behind a bin. Later, when they went to gather the bags, they were gone.
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